Word: 90s
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...90s & now "We're not designed to be slothful and indolent suburbanites." --Moby...
...90s were about uniform dressing, and the decisions the consumer was making were very much brand oriented," says Jaqui Lividini, senior vice president for fashion at Saks Fifth Avenue. "When we turned the millennium, the whole fashion vocabulary changed so radically. Consumers wanted to look different; it became all about individuality. Now she wants to be the first one on the block to discover a new label...
...does that leave the big brands and their multimillion-dollar ad campaigns, boutiques and celebrity designers? Many have responded by acquiring the smaller brands, a trick they learned from the beauty business, in which the conglomerate Estee Lauder, for example, bought out M.A.C. and Bobbi Brown in the mid-'90s. Between December 2000 and July 2001, the Gucci Group snapped up Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. Then there are individual specialty lines: Gucci has issued a series of made-to-measure handbags, and Bottega Veneta designer Thomas Maier offers custom-order services...
...design-conscious chains as Target and Topshop have proved that they can deliver style smarts at a lower price. Indeed, luxury shoppers are now as likely to be found in Costco or Tesco as they are in Chanel. Those shoppers who traded up to luxury brands in the booming '90s fell away when the market...
...Gucci and LVMH needed to establish firmly in the consumer's eye and mind exactly what each of their brands stood for. "Consolidation intensified the development of a spatial brand identity," says Michael Gabellini of Gabellini Associates, who created Jil Sander's light, white and limestone look in the '90s...