Word: adria
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...housed below the wooden beams of a renovated dockside warehouse and its mildly ramshackle appearance belies two Michelin stars, as well as the fact that it was named third best restaurant in the world on the prestigious annual list put out by Restaurant magazine. (No. 1 is Ferran Adria's El Bulli in Spain and No. 2 is Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck in Britain.) The animal skin rugs thrown over the back of the chairs and the bleached wood remind you that this is ground zero for the new Nordic cuisine, in which a traditional focus on pickling, shellfish...
...part of what we do with the rest of the six months of the year," she explained. Besides pricey books, revenue streams include kitchen equipment and other enterprises. But it all serves the purpose of maintaining the restaurant and its all-important taller or laboratory workshop in Barcelona where Adria and his creative staff conjure up a new menu each year...
After the lecture, I joined the Adrias and the scientist-organizers of their visit at a sumptuous 30-course dinner scheduled at Clio, an elegant restaurant in Boston's Back Bay. Its chef, Kenneth Oringer, spent some time in the elBulli kitchen. Adria was happily relaxed but still peppering the scientists at the table with questions about the qualities of certain foods. Why, he asked, did red beets emulsify so much more easily than anything else he's used in the kitchen. None of the scientists had an answer but someone suggested putting the root crop through a molecular spectroscope...
...while, food kept arriving on the table in beautiful and manageable individual portions, some inspired by dishes and techniques from elBulli. But the number of plates was adding up. Even though elBulli is known to serve 40 courses per person each night, the Adrias were jet-lagged and facing another two days at Harvard. Dinner the next night was going to be substantial too. (The locale: Chinatown.) But how do you tell a kitchen to stop being generous? Jose Andres, the chef and star of a TV show on Spanish food - and another disciple of Adria's well loved...
Before the evening ended at 2 a.m., the Adrias slipped me a CD. On its front were the words Bon Nadal, Catalan for "Merry Christmas." I had commissioned TIME's first piece on Adria back in 2000 and we'd become friends after being seated together at the gala dinner for the TIME 100 of 2004, of which Ferran was one. Since then, Ferran Adria has become an even more popular and influential global cultural figure. He has been hailed as an artist at Germany's prestigious Documenta arts festival in Kassel, and at Harvard he was rubbing elbows with...