Word: alpinists
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Died. John Harlin, 31, a onetime dress designer for Dior and Balmain and an Air Force polar survival expert who became a noted Alpinist and the first American to conquer two of the most dreaded Alps, the Matterhorn and the Eiger, via their treacherous north faces, opened a school in Switzerland specializing in direttissima, an innovation that ignores the traditional zigging and zagging around danger spots for a damn-the-obstacles, straight-up climb to the top; as a result of a 3,000-ft. fall during the first direttissima attempt on the Eiger, successfully completed by the rest...
Gerd Uner was sent back to Munich for amputation of several frostbitten toes. Rainer Kauschke was suffering from an "acute rheumatic disorder." Team Lead er Siegert complained of uncontrollable trembling in his arms and feet. It will never be so hard again, said one Italian alpinist. "The Germans blazed the vertical trail-and their pitons are still in the rock. This summer, you will see climbers do the same thing in a single...
Leader of the group was a German named Toni Hiebeler, 32. editor of an obscure Alpinist magazine in Munich called the Mountain Companion. Hiebeler was driven to conquer der Eiger by the Alpinist's special lust for revenge: his best friend had crashed to his death on the north wall...
...didn't say much," said Alpinist Toni Hiebeler later. "We just stood still for five minutes after we made it, shaking hands and saying 'thanks' to each other...
When the first Japanese-language version of the U.S. jazz magazine Down Beat hit the stands in Tokyo this summer, an 18-year-old university student wrote the publishers his fervent thanks: "To me your magazine is as a mountain guide to an amateur Alpinist." Japanese enthusiasts are finding the cool air of American jazz a mighty heady place...