Word: alsatians
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Best Wine Buys Alsatian whites and Chilean reds. The fruity, bone-dry Pinot Blancs and Pinot Gris from Alsace are still quality bargains from France. For everyday drinking, Chile's suave, uncomplicated Cabernet Sauvignons couldn't be beat...
...with luxurious blue and green tropical birds on its tiled walls. Lipp's has long been famous for its choucroute (a.k.a. sauerkraut), and purists argue whether it deserves its reputation. But one outsider's view is that anyone who willingly orders choucroute deserves whatever he or she gets. The Alsatian plum tarts are much better. The main attraction, though, is the beer, which comes in glasses of increasing size, starting with a demi for a half-liter, working up to a serieux and finally a distingue, a mug holding a liter...
...sensuous collection of her favorite recipes, sprinkled liberally with her usual didactic asides. A specialist in the cuisines of Morocco, southwest France and the Mediterranean, Wolfert wanders afield and offers up not only caponata, the Sicilian vegetable appetizer, and the fragrant tagine stews of Morocco but also the lusty Alsatian casserole of meat, onions and potatoes known as backeoffe...
...Henri. In the Meridien Hotel, this is the bosky, intimate setting for excellent renditions of the Alsatian-accented food of its consulting chef, Marc Haeberlin, from France's three-star Auberge de l'Ill. The best dishes have Alsatian or classic French overtones: a salad of warm duckling with cabbage and foie-gras-glossed ravioli, tournedos with shallots in red-wine sauce, and braised venison with noodles...
...cases in point: Linda Merinoff's The Glorious Noodle -- A Culinary Tour Around the World (Poseidon; $16.95) and Margaret Leibenstein's The Edible Mushroom -- A Gourmet Cook's Guide (Fawcett Columbine; $14.95). Merinoff, a journalist and caterer, is obviously beguiled by all things pasta -- Italian, Greek, Hungarian, Israeli, African, Alsatian or Asian. Her work brims with tempting dumplings, noodles in mild and spicy sauces, one-dish soups and stews bolstered with some form of wheat-, bean- or rice-flour noodles. Lore is easygoing, and recipes are explicit...