Word: ambonnay
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Never mind soaring oil prices and the credit crunch. The champagne business has been effervescent lately, and the bar for high-end bubbly just got higher. After more than a decade of secrecy, Champagne Krug has uncorked an extraordinary new sparkler, the 1995 Krug Clos d'Ambonnay. Only 3,000 bottles were produced; retailing from between $3,000 and $7,000 per bottle, it is the most expensive champagne in the world. And I recently became one of the very few who will ever taste...
...hold up a sparkling glass of Krug's latest creation in the walled vineyard that produced it - just over half a hectare of perfectly manicured Pinot Noir grape vines in the village of Ambonnay - I try not to do the math that makes this the costliest tipple I am ever likely to have on a Tuesday afternoon. Determined not to be dazzled by its price and rarity, I take a sniff and a sip. The bright golden elixir smells at first like almond blossoms, but the aroma quickly ripens like dark fruit. An exceptionally fine mousse of bubbles seems...
Even Olivier Krug, director of the house, admits that the single-vineyard Clos d'Ambonnay is one of "the simplest Krug wines to produce." As far as I am concerned, though, it is simply stunning, and I find myself thinking of every possible excuse to make a toast. Here's to Tuesday afternoons...
...blank"Pierre and Sophie Larmandier stunned their relatives - and turned their back on a 200-year family tradition - when they stopped using herbicides a decade ago and cut back on grape yields. "It was a radical change, and some people thought we were mad," Pierre says. Francis Egly in Ambonnay is one of the most successful of these new producers; his Pinot Noir?based Blanc des Noirs caught the attention of American wine guru Robert Parker, who lists Egly-Ouriet, tel: (33-326) 57 00 70, as one of the top Champagne houses. Like Anselme Selosse of Jacques Selosse...
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