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Honorable Men Amendolara offers a tiny blip of hope on the otherwise bleak map of Calabria. Current local leaders have pushed to maximize the town's tourist potential and improve living conditions for residents. Beginning in 2001, Mayor Mario Melfi, a former union leader, implemented a municipal program under the grand slogan: "Amendolara wants to be in Italy, in Europe, in peace." Funded by $3 million a year in local property taxes and $630,000 in revenue from traffic tickets - plus additional grants from Rome and Brussels - the town has offered financial incentives and improved infrastructure to attract private businesses...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Italian Elections: All Is Not Lost | 4/2/2008 | See Source »

Still, it would be a mistake to get seduced entirely by the mayor's efforts, or by the good-life charms of the town's refurbished 11th century chapel, homemade salami and Mediterranean breeze. For Amendolara's residents are still short on opportunities. Melfi himself says a lack of industry, large-scale agriculture and sufficient air and highway connections means that poverty and unemployment are bound to persist. "We're not some kind of 'happy island,'" he says. "We've got many of the same problems as the rest of Calabria. Too many young people are packing their bags, with...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Italian Elections: All Is Not Lost | 4/2/2008 | See Source »

...supplement his income with cash-paid day jobs in construction: "You do your best to support your family." Meanwhile, Mayor Melfi's nephew, Sergio Zaccaria, 27, a business major at Roma Tre University in the nation's capital, says he is not likely to come back to live in Amendolara. "Young people here are bitter that we can't maximize our ability," he says. "So, many of us will never be able to return home...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Italian Elections: All Is Not Lost | 4/2/2008 | See Source »

...failure of the state is on stark display 180 miles (290 km) south of Amendolara in the town of San Luca. This is the heart of 'Ndrangheta country. The Calabrian mob - whose name derives from the Greek word for "honorable man" - controls wide swaths of territory through intimidation and extortion. The payoff has been great: it has grown into a world leader in cocaine trafficking, with an estimated $47 billion in annual revenue. But the toll has been heavy. The "Massacre of Ferragosto" - the gangland killing last Aug. 15 in Duisburg, Germany, of six young men from in and around...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Italian Elections: All Is Not Lost | 4/2/2008 | See Source »

...Back in Amendolara, Melfi doesn't claim to have the magic solution. "I make 100 errors a day," the mayor says. "But I know that if I hadn't made any mistakes I wouldn't have accomplished anything at all." Italy needs more leaders willing to err in the pursuit of the public good, and citizens who learn to discard - and not recycle - those whose sole ambition is to cling to power...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Italian Elections: All Is Not Lost | 4/2/2008 | See Source »

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