Word: andoh
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Dates: during 1988-1988
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Eastern sensibilities -- specifically the delicate seasonings of Japan -- also float through Elizabeth Andoh's An Ocean of Flavor (Morrow; $20.95). Andoh, an American who is married to a Japanese and has spent many years in Japan, makes a fine guide to that country's methods of enhancing the flavor of seafood without obliterating it. She explains as well the techniques of frying, poaching, grilling and cutting raw fish for the right textural contrasts and warns about pollutants and parasites. Fried soft-shell crabs in a spicy sauce, cold poached tilefish with mustard-miso sauce and fiddlehead ferns, and a careful...