Word: angeloni
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...investigations and local Sicilian turf wars. He had allowed members of a historic Mafia family, the Inzerillos, to return to Palermo in recent months from more than two decades of forced exile in the U.S. after former top boss Totò Riina tried to exterminate the entire clan. Piero Angeloni, head of Palermo's police detective unit, says Lo Piccolo's arrest is likely to stall Sicilian efforts to deepen links with the "Americani." But the contacts are sure to continue. "This relationship is essential - it always has been," Angeloni told TIME...
...most-wanted fugitive. He was so sure of his standing as the Mafia's unrivaled leader that he could severely limit his movements; his whereabouts were only verified when cops spotted him sticking his hand out of a boarded-up farmhouse to receive a package. In contrast, says Angeloni, Lo Piccolo's ambitions left him more exposed to capture, which occurred after he and his son showed up in a Toyota Yaris for a summit at a country house west of Palermo. "The Lo Piccolos were still in the phase of conquering territory, which required them to constantly make contacts...
...Angeloni shows off the adjacent paneled fitting room, designed to evoke a library. "Our client is looking for one-of-a-kind products. They want small scale, not 200,000-sq.-ft. stores with untold goods," he says, noting that there are 25 dedicated Brioni stores worldwide, all staffed by trained tailors, and 400 stores that sell Brioni alongside other brands. "We haven't diversified beyond our core customer. Real luxury should not be so ubiquitous...
...Fonticoli was to recognize the importance of the fast-growing ready-to-wear suit business and develop assembly systems that would allow Brioni to make more suits in fewer hours without abandoning the company's signature hand detailing. Brioni introduced a line of off-the-rack suits in 1960. Angeloni, who trained as an economist and married into one of the families that own Brioni, took over in 1990. He has pushed to transform Brioni into a lifestyle brand by adding women's wear and accessories. "Artisans continue to offer bespoke tailoring, but we are the only international lifestyle brand...
Although the bespoke service (the term comes from the English tradition of setting aside a client's fabric, which was said to be "spoken for") is limited to Rome and Milan and accounts for only 3% of Brioni's sales, Angeloni says it's what differentiates the brand from others. Today most of the company's business is in off-the-rack suits, priced from $2,600 and available in the same quality fabrics and with the same buttons used for the bespoke versions. A quarter of the company's 1,600 employees worldwide are trained tailors. About...