Word: appã
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...discussion when experts try to define it. Child says, "There have been entire symposiums trying to define American cuisine. As far as I'm concerned, it is American food, cooked in America by Americans with American ingredients." The broadest view is expressed by Jan Weimer, food editor of Bon App??tit, a cooking magazine whose circulation has jumped from 300,000 in 1975 to its present 1.3 million. Says she: "The term means any food cooked in America today." Weimer explains the nationwide surge in gastronomic interest this way: "The '50s represented a low point in American cooking. Mothers were...