Word: aquavit
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...Japanese and the Scandinavians are both given to clean, uncluttered interiors, and can do wonderful things with fish. No surprise, then, that the Tokyo branch of Aquavit - the first Asian venture from 39-year-old chef Marcus Samuelsson, creator of the Aquavit restaurants in New York City and Stockholm - is packing them in. Tucked away in the bustling Kita-Aoyama neighborhood, the light-filled Aquavit greets diners with a warm and tactile mix of high-backed booths of sage-green velvet and traditional tables of crisp white linens. Furnishings and fittings, by Swedish designer Bruno Mathsson and Danes Arne Jacobsen...
...Imagination also extends to the drinks menu, where - what else? - the Scandinavian grain spirit aquavit is mixed with the likes of cucumber, lychee blossom, mango and chili to create unique cocktails, best sipped in the candlelit bar, cocooned in a soft leather Arne Jacobsen Egg chair. Samuelsson knows all about blending influences; born in Ethiopia, adopted by Swedish parents and based in America, he has introduced an original approach to a gastronomic capital where culinary passion is paramount. For details, see www.aquavit-japan.com...
...Panama both old (Las Bovedas, a 17th century Spanish fort) and new (Frank Gehry's Museum of Biodiversity, which is still under construction but rising rapidly) before heading to the recently opened Pony Club (www.limoncillo.com) for dinner. Panamanian chef Clara Icaza has worked at Manhattan hot spot Aquavit, and her nuevo-Panamanian menu includes signature dishes such as Turkolimano (grilled jumbo prawns, tomato and feta with lemon-ouzo vinaigrette) and squid risotto in a broth of octopus and roasted red pepper, all served in a pale-wood dining room and accompanied by an ambitious wine list. After dinner...
...face it, the gastronomic reputation of the far North is as dim as the winter sun. Sure, beets and pickled herring have been somewhat rehabilitated by ambassadors like Marcus Samuelsson of New York City's Aquavit and TV chef Andreas Viestad, Norway's answer to Jamie Oliver. But the Nordic countries are still far better known internationally for progressive living and modern design than for innovative haute cuisine...
Some chefs feel so strongly about these products that they have endorsed the Wholesome Sweeteners brand, which is one of several companies that distribute these sugars in the U.S. Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit restaurant in New York City is one of those chefs, and although he hasn't been paid for it, his picture appears on the back of a package of a raw cane sugar from Malawi, along with his recipe for moist, chewy gingersnaps. "I got hooked on these sugars about two years ago," says Samuelsson. "I'm always looking for good-quality ingredients, and these sugars have...