Word: aquavit
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...works obsessively but just as easily becomes a raucous, tobacco-chewing, beer-swigging good ole boy. A yachtsman who defended the America's Cup in 1977 and won the title Captain Outrageous, Turner showed up at a victory press conference roaring drunk and tugging at a bottle of aquavit. During a conference on arms control in Atlanta early this month, Turner dined with the likes of Jimmy Carter and Soviet Ambassador Anatoli Dobrynin. When the conversation began to bore Turner, he produced a tiny TV from his pocket, set the device on the table and proceeded to watch a Braves...
...land of the midnight sun is growing, and two new cookbooks are setting out to explain the variety and bounty of Scandinavian foods. Kitchen of Light (Artisan, $35) by Norwegian TV cooking-show host Andreas Viestad, already a surprise best seller, has been joined on bookshelves this month by Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine (Houghton Mifflin, $45) by James Beard-award-winning chef Marcus Samuelsson...
...side of his Swedish grandmother, Helga Jonsson. "I learned the most about food from my grandmother," he says. "Her world completely revolved around food." After a stint at culinary school, followed by work in kitchens throughout Europe, Samuelsson became executive chef at New York City's sleek Aquavit in 1995 when he was only 24; he has lived in New York ever since, with annual visits to both Sweden and Ethiopia. His recipes reflect his global view, with traditional Swedish dishes--such as gravlax with mustard sauce, prune-stuffed pork roast and, yes, Swedish meatballs--interspersed with his own creations...
Every single dessert was a standout. Since February, pastry chef Kristen Murray, formerly at Aquavit in New York, has been working wonders at the tail end of the menu. The Citrus Cheesecake ($10) is luscious, with salade, sorbet and jus presenting varying intensities of the same flavor. The Warm Spiced Cake ($10) nods slyly to the upcoming holiday season; with peppered pears and eggnog anglaise it’s a highly sophisticated rendering of traditional Christmas fare. Heirloom3 Squash Crème Brulée ($9) is perhaps the best I’ve ever eaten, with a custard...
...three-course prix fixe dinner costs $68. The list offers several dozen good wines for less than $60. Aquavit is open every day for lunch and dinner. Wear a jacket for the atrium; the cafe is more casual...