Word: aquavit
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...AQUAVIT 13 West 54th Street (212-307-7311). The entrance to this restaurant in a Renaissance-style townhouse is a few steps below the sidewalk and marked with only a small sign that is easy to miss. Once you're inside, it sheds its modesty...
...Aquavit's fare, primarily seafood and game, is Scandinavian, but the preparation and presentation are distinctively Chef Marcus Samuelsson's, acquired on a career journey that has carried him to Paris and through Latin America. Many dishes are served on a block of translucent glass that looks like ice. One is tuna accompanied by horseradish sorbet, colder and more crystalline than the traditional horseradish in cream. Among our other favorites were a soup of sea urchin, seared foie gras and watermelon; and hot smoked arctic char with octopus, mushroom, buckwheat ragout and duck consomme...
...producers of caviar from pen-raised sturgeon, led by the pioneering Stolt Sea Farm of Elverta, Calif. But do the texture and taste measure up? We asked the executive chefs of two of New York City's top seafood restaurants--Rick Moonen of Oceana, pictured, and Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit--to sample unmarked servings of Russian Osetra caviar and Sterling Classic brand, produced by Stolt Sea Farm. Neither could tell the difference. "The quality of the farm-raised caviar has increased," says Moonen. "They can rival some caviars coming from the Caspian." And the domestic eggs are a bargain...
...frigid, shipshape, elegant and grave, a well-engineered mini-fjord. On into the 12-ft.-wide tube, which contains the exhibition space. Outside, the tube resembles a giant clothes-dryer ventilation duct and sits in a pool atop a black plinth -- and inside the plinth, in turn, is an aquavit-and-herring restaurant...
...naturalized," says the trim-bearded, tall-toqued chef. "We include many non-Spanish dishes. Anything that suits the idea." He cites such Italian entries as pasta, salads of mozzarella, basil and tomato, and caponata, the Sicilian eggplant relish. Add to that the steak tartare, fish chowder and salmon with aquavit and dill served at the Tapas Restaurant located in north Cambridge, Mass., and it is clear that tapas have be come all-around citizens of the world...