Word: ardened
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...There's only one Elizabeth like me," she liked to say, with a self-effacing little smile. "And that's the Queen." In fact, Elizabeth Arden, until she died last week in Manhattan at an age given out by her office as 82, was the czarina of the cosmetics business, a Bluegrass princess of the racing circuit, and a self-made multimillionairess with one Manhattan penthouse, one horse farm, a country cottage in Belmont, N.Y., and a 12th century castle in Ireland. More essentially, she was the first woman (or man) to successfully merchandise not merely creams...
...paints, is a huge success with the ladies, is vastly entertaining. He is also 26, handsome, slender, Italian, and of noble birth. A phenomenon of the art world? Not at all. He is Manhattan's newest status symbol: Pablo of Elizabeth Arden...
Hateful Eyebrows. The son of Count Zappi-Manzoni, Pablo arrived self-taught from Arden's Rome salon two years ago with a bagful of tricks (beige foundation, pink and white eyeshadow). He took the fashion world by storm with a series of eye fantasies for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in which he used peacock feathers, sequins, lace, flower petals, even diamonds, all painstakingly pasted onto eyelids in fanciful designs. Some eyes took as long as five hours to do, but they made the magazine covers, earned Pablo special beauty awards and the run of Elizabeth Arden...
...wicked war breeders. He plans to string up the skeleton and then mow down the town bigwigs in wrathful reprisal, a mortal atonement for war guilt. His trigger finger is numbed by the playwright: "You can't cure the pox by further whoring." This is presumably Arden's pacifist manifesto...
...World War II to adjust to lost world influence. The frustrating impotence of vanished power masquerades as the moral virtue of a troubled conscience. Going off on tangents, staging diversionary incidents, piling on self-indulgent rhetoric: all these would have been enough to spoil the play. But Arden has a much more drastic flaw. He tries to practice consensus drama, a contradiction in terms. For Serjeant Musgrave's Dance to possess any intrinsic vitality, there would have to be a respectable body of thought holding that war is heavenly. As it is, Arden is merely preaching sermons...