Word: armanied
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...Italian superstar, this year even more than last, is undeniably Giorgio Armani, 46. A master tailor who was probably the most influential men's wear designer in the '70s, he is being hailed in his sixth year of designing for women as Cardin and Courreges were in the '60s. (And being well rewarded: his sales worldwide last year totaled $120 million.) The Armani imprint is detectable in many of his competitors' designs. Says Carla Fendi, of the Roman family of designers: "He has created a unique style, one that you can recognize without a label...
Long before he started designing clothes for women, Armani was known for his superb tailoring and loving way with materials. For both men and women, he reintroduced linen, for example -and made the inevitable crumpled look acceptable. He ripped the linings out of his jackets for women to create an unstructured look, and made them hang almost as loosely as an afterthought...
With his new collection, Armani introduces fancy-free outfits for work and play. There is hardly a skirt in the show. The emphasis is on pants: quilted, pleated, tucked and cuffed bermudas, knee-length culottes with upward-curving hems, knickers and quilted pantskirts. They are worn in daytime with silk or satin blouses, strictly tailored jackets, capes and large T-shaped wool ponchos. Many of Armani's favorite colors-shades of beige, brown, rust, taupe, gray, black, traces of cobalt blue-are subtly combined in a single ensemble. Favorite materials for pants and jackets are houndstooth checks, herringbone tweeds...
This past fall, rumors circled the Hollywood hot air mills purporting that Waits had returned from France a changed man. One story went so far as to suggest he had shed his thrift shop threads for Giorgio Armani suits and a clean-shaven, manicured Continental haute couture. Sitting in one of Herb Cohen's small offices and backdropped by a fountain and Spanish courtyard, Waits needn't have inquired "Giorgio who?" to debunk that fiction. One look was enough: pointed black shoes (leather cracked), tight, wrinkled straight black pants, a haphazardly-buttoned off-white white shirt, his goatee more under...
...succumbing in increasing numbers to the "schlepped in" look. When Wilkes Bashford, San Francisco's priciest men's store, ran full-page ads featuring a man whose linen suit looked as if it had escaped from a disaster movie, it was a sellout. Italy's Giorgio Armani is generally acknowledged to be the greatest evangelist of male unkempt. A disarming, blue-eyed Milanese, Armani, 43, is a canny tailor who knows precisely what each fabric can do and undo. Though Italians call his style Il Look Inglese-to which stiff upper-collared Englishmen might well object-Armani...