Word: armanis
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Pierre Bergé, partner and protector of Yves Saint Laurent, peeks over the battlements at the enemy force below and, as if panicking, fires off a salvo before he has found his aim. "Give me one piece of clothing, one fashion statement that Armani has made that has truly influenced the world...
...vest worn over a coat-that scramble clichés and conventions into a new and effortless redefinition of style. A functional celebration of fabric. A reshaping of traditional geometry with witty contours, sudden symmetries and startling vectors. A new sort of freedom in clothes. An ease, the Armani ease. And that, as we say in French, is just for les openers...
...temperament is understandable. Bergé has a legend to burnish and a business to run. He sounds like a man who knows strong competition when he sees it taking a stroll down the boulevard, decked out, more than likely, in some splendiferous Armani assemblage. The fact is, Saint Laurent remains the pale eminence of high fashion, in part because of his undisputed creative coups over the years, in part because of his huge volume of business and the relentless mythologizing of the fashion press. The fact is also that while Saint Laurent's contributions have been generative and historic...
...great moment. But it is very much a matter of the moment, and what may now seem like a temporal fancy can become, decades hence, a tactile key into the past. Clothes are the fabric of history, the texture of time. And this time, right now, belongs to Armani...
...made over this little pocket of the present that when he decided not to show his new fall women's line during the semiannual glitz and giddiness known loosely as the Milan collections, he incurred the wrath of the press but walked off with the honors anyway. "Armani is the king of the Italian Alps," says Geraldine Stutz, president of the modish New York City department store Henri Bendel. The assorted princesses, princelings and pretenders scattered about the feudal fashion kingdom of Milan sent their models gadding down runways in all the latest but did not succeed in dislodging...