Word: armanis
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Giorgio Armani defines the new shape of style...
Just the name . . . the name alone . . . the very mention of the name sends off sparks and sets up a clamor like a French fire drill. "Giorgio Armani! Except for white truffles, pasta and opera, the Italians can't be credited with anything...
...than the tight, boxy '60s style. "Flippy" is the word used by some skirt watchers. Says New York's Cuban-born designer Adolfo: "The old minis looked like clothes that had been chopped off at the bottom. Now they are different, looser." Adds Milan's Giorgio Armani: "The new miniskirt is not stiff and straight but soft, fitted at the hips and gathered for a short volume effect. It is also a natural evolution toward femininity after the dizzying circus of pants, knickers, Bermudas, gauchos and Zouaves." Valentino, the dean of Italian designers, argues that "women feel...
...Armani, part of whose spring collection, at least 15%, will be composed of leather pieces, has designed a series of jackets of all lengths. Says he: "Colors will be intense and surprising. There will be Bermudas, vests, shirts, suede pullovers worked with inlays of different colors inspired by knitwear...
Leather also lends itself to fine detailing. Armani's creations for Italy's Mario Valentino print, stripe and weave leather to resurrect a rich Renaissance look. Bill Blass also uses a weave effect on some blouses, and Ralph Lauren has put ruffles on suede in delicate peasant blouses. Says he: "Feathery-light blouses that once were made of cotton can now be done in suede. And it can mix with anything-silk, a sweater, tweeds, linen or cotton." The new leather, made ideally from the South African hair sheep, comes in starbursts of colors: fire-engine...