Word: armanis
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Until Paris, went the chat among trade and press, the shows in Milan and London were a cumulative snooze-a-thon. Only Armani, in Italy, showed strength. The designers of England were, as ever, erratic and eccentric. There were signs of disappointment in retail reactions to the shows. Skirmishes over skirt length were blown, in the absence of any heavier action, into epic battles in a generally desperate attempt to bring heat to the placid proceedings. The short-skirt wrangle was a sure sign that the season was falling into something worse than a crisis. At least a critical condition...
Some fashion watchers attribute the resurgence to the influence of Italian designers like Giorgio Armani, whose textured black and gray suits are best highlighted by white shirts. "There is nothing more crisp and effective with a dressy suit than a white shirt," says Phil Borntrager, a buyer at upscale Chicago clothier Mark Shale's. Others see white's return as emblematic of a conservative trend in power dressing. "People are looking for a lower profile, and that includes the way they dress," explains Jody Kuss of the haberdashery Barneys New York...
...thoroughly hip couple of Jon (John M. Shecter) and Jane (Felicia D. Phillips). In this contemporary setting, the strict hierarchy of the fashion gangs prevents their union. Jon suffers the misfortune of coming from the wrong label family. His J. August sweats look provincial next to the latest Armani and Williwear fashions that the Cambridge gang members sport...
...around with the clothes and schmooze with -- or at least step over -- the grand master, Lacroix is attracting other wealthy young people accustomed to haute ready-to-wear. Living for the city lights, they are the type who might sport a subtle Issey Miyake one night, an elegant Giorgio Armani the next...
...long hours and pit-bull doggedness, Tom with his boyish, passive charisma. Both men might tell you that ideals are as passe as peace marches and that the happening disease, the one everyone wants to catch, is designer greed. So who cares that Bud is a bookie in an Armani suit and Tom is a mannequin with an earpiece? Both will go far. And both will be backpacking their films toward Oscar nominations and the top of the Christmas-party chat list...