Word: armanis
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Ferré lapel that eases down to the waist and folds over like a scarf? How about that Comme des Garçons dress-is that the armhole or the neckband, and where does all that damned draping go? Do clients want to be elegant and easy with Armani, gilded with Lagerfeld, transported by Miyake to some astral plane where clothes, craft and fine art all cozy up? Do they want to stay with the hard, somber shades of the past few seasons or break loose with the Day-Glo flash of fresh fluorescence? Do they want the newly refined...
When Perse and Dubois-Dumée spend a day buying the cerebral, sensual extravagances of Issey Miyake, the same general rules apply as when Kaplan cases Armani or when Judy Krull checks out Lagerfeld's surprisingly direct and swellegant new line, the first under his own name. In the showroom, armed with order forms, style books, color charts, the buyers, with occasional encouragement and sweet talk from the designers, start to act just like serious shoppers. They pull clothes off racks, hold them up, try them on. Armani's definitive long coats and shorter sexy skirts...
...full of rock as the home tube. One of Hollywood's hottest movies for summer '84 is Walter Hill's Streets of Fire, with a title rerouted from Bruce Springsteen, a score featuring songs by the Blasters and Tom Petty, and some costumes designed by Giorgio Armani, all helping to spin out a hellish story set in the future imperfect. Even sooner, viewers can sample a fine, tough, sexy new movie called Reckless, with tunes by Romeo Void and Bob Seeger; a fake documentary called This Is Spinal Tap, directed by Rob Reiner, which chronicles with legitimate...
Those homely virtues-longevity, consistency-are the ones emphasized by Saint Laurent's rivals, such as Giorgio Armani and Karl Lagerfeld, in commenting on the Met's selection, and this is not faint praise. Members of the high-fashion elite are rich and coddled celebrities who seldom breathe unscented air, but they risk their names and their companies in the cold atmosphere of commerce with each new collection. There are not many truly wealthy private clients left, and they instinctively flock to whatever guru has had his inspiration certified by the press and by a chic popular line...
...girls rather than vice versa. It is said that Saint Laurent does not get around the streets to observe enough any more. The ebullient man who posed nude for a men's fragrance ad in 1971 is now painfully isolated (see box). He has new rivals. Today Armani commands fashion's thinkers. The Japanese designers are the darlings of the avantgarde. Ralph Lauren has made distinctively American tailoring popular internationally. At Chanel, the talented, aggressive Lagerfeld seems to be mounting a direct challenge to Saint Laurent's supremacy in both the atelier and the boutique...