Word: armanis
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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McGrath's range is as varied as the colors she uses. Four years ago, Giorgio Armani, the master of understated elegance, tapped McGrath to help create his namesake cosmetics line. That's an assignment head snappingly different from her runway work, particularly with designer John Galliano. At his spring 2003 ready-to-wear collections, an homage in part to India's Bollywood film industry, Galliano created an outrageous, exuberant circus with models in sky-high headdresses and 6-in. platform heels. McGrath drew on the deep pigments associated with India, covering models' faces--and any body part not concealed...
...Having the classy clothes is new to them." Lauren is encouraged by the reviews and by what he sees as the nature of the European shopper. "It's a culture that understands quality and taste," he says. "They understand my clothes more than Americans. They're hungry for it. Armani and Zegna? They don't look like me." For fall, Armani looked east with kimono shirts and Mao jackets; for spring, Lauren went Gatsby with pleated trousers and waistcoats...
...spring 2003 that followed last month, were well received by the local press. WITH RALPH LAUREN MAN IS ELEGANT AGAIN, gushed a headline in the Milan daily Corriere della Sera. The international press played up the competition between Lauren and the European king of menswear, Giorgio Armani. Again a compliment: no such comparison was made when Calvin Klein staged his first men's shows in Italy. Lauren's moves have begun to pay off. European sales in fiscal 2002 grew more than 30% compared with 2001, a trend that has continued, according to Isham, though from a very small base...
...done in the U.S. While European designers love centralization, Lauren is more willing to give important roles to others. Take manufacturing. In the past 12 months, Gucci Group has announced it will open a state-of-the-art factory for shoemaker Sergio Rossi by the end of the year. Armani has announced a joint venture with four shoemakers. And Marzotto, the new owner of Valentino, has promised that Val will get his own accessories plant too. All this activity in the name of corporate control, and MADE IN ITALY on the label. Polo doesn't own a factory, doesn...
...help him in Europe. "I started out in America piece by piece. Now I'm coming with all the equipment," he says. But not always waving the American flag. "All the stores are international now. Someone who is 12 years old doesn't know if Armani is Italian. These stores are a part of life; you respond to them based on if you like them...