Word: armanis
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...designers sat out the carnival while making fortunes out of basic, neutral clothes. They include Giorgio Armani, who started the last real revolution in fashion with his destructured jackets, and his colonists-Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Donna Karan, among others. Now the fashionable cycle has restarted. Versace saw it coming. "I dressed Claudia Schiffer and Madonna like my mother used to dress," he says. "You see, women are changing again. They don't want to look androgynous anymore...
...Many American department stores have been quietly cutting back on the space allocated to their designer boutiques. In a significant move last December, the house of Anne Klein released Richard Tyler, a sharp tailor known for his Hollywood connections, in favor of Patrick Robinson, only 28, who had masterminded Armani's Collezioni line. Robinson's first effort, put together hastily after his appointment, was both safe and dull, but his attitude has to have retailers cheering. "The point," he says, "is to create excitement in the stores, not the runways...
...Dartboard would also like to question the extravagant amount of $3,000 for the Angry Pilgrim's wardrobe. How hard can it be to dress a pilgrim? Three thousand dollars sounds suspiciously like haute couture for mascots--that is, if Giorgio Armani would ever waste his time designing a pilgrim outfit...
...upwards of $2,500 for a jacket and a pair of trousers -- including such notable shoppers as Barbra Streisand, Winona Ryder, Uma Thurman and life- stylist Martha Stewart. Sander has turned her 20-year-old Hamburg atelier into a $200 million fashion-and-cosmetics empire, and she has joined Armani and Chanel as one of the three best-selling elite designers in the U.S. There are already 22 Sander boutiques worldwide; by the end of next year, there will be 10 more, from Osaka to Houston, Dallas to New York City. Even fashion editors who tout couture's more fanciful...
...contempt for the overt has led observers to compare her to that other purveyor of modern simplicity, Giorgio Armani -- an analogy Sander rejects. "I'm happy he exists," she says, "because he brought a minimalist vision of fashion compared with, say, Chanel or Versace. But I feel far away from him; these are two different concepts." In fact, Sander's style is even more spartan than Armani's, her palette even narrower; her detractors would argue that her look is far more severe and somber. "She is one of those designers other designers laugh at," says Joan Weinstein...