Word: armanis
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...struck him as so ugly, so splotched with color, that he left it hanging in his room for a week. But people loved it, people who'd never looked at him twice, except in dismay. So he is meekly agreeable when Henderson puts him in a midnight blue Giorgio Armani suit with tone-on- tone striping. "To me, that's a front-of-the-room look," she declares...
...imprimatur, separating himself from the excellent elegances of Milan in favor of the more experimental company in Paris. The intrepid Japanese designers show their stuff in Paris; so do the haut trendies like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana. The company is faster there than in Milan, where Giorgio Armani, Italy's premier talent, casts a very long shadow indeed. "Presumptuous," is the way Armani characterizes Gigli's move, adding, "He may want to be international, but his move is premature...
...time of flux, when the fashion establishment, still shell-shocked by the '60s, was not quite so restrictive. Italy came on with a rush of fresh talent: dazzling designers (like the Missonis), some fine hands (like Gianfranco Ferre) and some naughty boys (like Gianni Versace). But, in Armani, it produced just a | single world beater. Paris, on the other hand, can still offer a wider spectrum: sumptuous Saint Laurent, engaging Lagerfeld, generative Miyake, fast-flash Gaultier, ebullient Patrick Kelly. As ever, it is center stage, the arena on which designers want most to play, especially if they are coming...
Until Paris, went the chat among trade and press, the shows in Milan and London were a cumulative snooze-a-thon. Only Armani, in Italy, showed strength. The designers of England were, as ever, erratic and eccentric. There were signs of disappointment in retail reactions to the shows. Skirmishes over skirt length were blown, in the absence of any heavier action, into epic battles in a generally desperate attempt to bring heat to the placid proceedings. The short-skirt wrangle was a sure sign that the season was falling into something worse than a crisis. At least a critical condition...
Some fashion watchers attribute the resurgence to the influence of Italian designers like Giorgio Armani, whose textured black and gray suits are best highlighted by white shirts. "There is nothing more crisp and effective with a dressy suit than a white shirt," says Phil Borntrager, a buyer at upscale Chicago clothier Mark Shale's. Others see white's return as emblematic of a conservative trend in power dressing. "People are looking for a lower profile, and that includes the way they dress," explains Jody Kuss of the haberdashery Barneys New York...