Word: armanis
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...Lacroix is the new superstar of fashion, the darling of last week's Paris couture shows, extolled by the press and praised by competitors. Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel calls him a "breath of fresh air." Giorgio Armani, whose severe, classic designs are the antithesis of Lacroix's, wishes him luck. "Welcome," he enthuses, "to Lacroix with his fresh follies...
...hand-tailored cashmere or silk number from William Fioravanti in New York City. "There are only about 500 of us in the world who own these Fioravanti tuxedoes," boasts New Jersey Entrepreneur Joe Taub, who swanks up his with diamond-and-ruby studs. Giorgio Armani works subtle and cunning variations on the classic tux ($1,395), and Issey Miyake strikes off into fresh territory with an easy-fitting model with no lapels ($1,000), but tradition holds sway in tuxedo design. "You want to know what I think about those colored things? They stink," says Sy Max, owner of Baldwin...
...this high holiday season and his vow to make amends with his alma mater, I will have the opportunity to catch his act over the next three years. Maybe that'll be enough time for me to buy a tuxedo--but, knowing my luck, Lenny will be wearing Georgio Armani...
...greatest designers of this century were Americans--Claire McCardell and Charles James--but, truth be told, there is not a designer on the American scene now who can match Armani's bold finesse, never mind the inventiveness of Issey Miyake, the deluxe grace of Yves Saint Laurent or Karl Lagerfeld, the Zen funkiness of Yohji Yamamoto. The best American design tends to be generic, not designer labeled. It would be hard to find, for instance, a designer who has been influenced by Louis Dell'Olio, but it would be equally impossible to find an Italian leather blouson that...
Milbank has produced lucid, well-researched essays on 61 designers from Charles Frederick Worth, who is considered the first professional couturier, as distinct from a private dressmaker, to Armani and Issey Miyake, the latest clothing innovators. The author, who is 30, began her work four years ago when she headed the costume department at Sotheby's auction house and realized that there was no single useful reference work. Couture certainly is that, but it is also highly entertaining social history. Milbank is gifted at writing appreciations, often the hardest kind of criticism to do convincingly. But there is something...