Word: armanis
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...pages of Gentlemen's Quarterly and other men's fashion magazines are filled with ads from top European names: Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Giorgio Armani, Nino Cerruti, Hugo Boss . . . Hugo Boss? Is he a French or Italian designer who changed his name to make it sound more macho...
...place at an executive board meeting. Made of top-quality wool, silk, linen and cotton from Italy, Boss suits cost from $200 to $300 in Europe and $400 to $500 in the U.S. They typically run about $100 less than suits made by such leading European designers as Armani and Valentino...
...Ferré lapel that eases down to the waist and folds over like a scarf? How about that Comme des Garçons dress-is that the armhole or the neckband, and where does all that damned draping go? Do clients want to be elegant and easy with Armani, gilded with Lagerfeld, transported by Miyake to some astral plane where clothes, craft and fine art all cozy up? Do they want to stay with the hard, somber shades of the past few seasons or break loose with the Day-Glo flash of fresh fluorescence? Do they want the newly refined...
When Perse and Dubois-Dumée spend a day buying the cerebral, sensual extravagances of Issey Miyake, the same general rules apply as when Kaplan cases Armani or when Judy Krull checks out Lagerfeld's surprisingly direct and swellegant new line, the first under his own name. In the showroom, armed with order forms, style books, color charts, the buyers, with occasional encouragement and sweet talk from the designers, start to act just like serious shoppers. They pull clothes off racks, hold them up, try them on. Armani's definitive long coats and shorter sexy skirts...
...such a chilling procedure seems like the bill that craft pays to commerce, it still unsettles those designers, usually the best ones, who put a premium on their creativity. "I create an image, but this look often disappears in the stores," says Giorgio Armani. "Buyers tend to misinterpret the idea and the allure of the designers," grouses Jean-Paul Gaultier, whose clothes attempt to transform the pandemonium of London rock fashion into a whimsical redefinition of youth a la mode. "They buy a big, oversized suit in a small size so it becomes superclassic, not all me." Issey Miyake expects...