Word: armanis
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Like many men without families, Armani has adopted his own, most of whom are employees of long standing who weekend with him at a converted farm house that he owns jointly with Galeotti, in Forte dei Marmi, about three hours' drive from Milan. The decoration there is a kind of bucolic adaptation of the Milan digs, with the same aquatic excess: in this case, an Olympic-size pool. For sun, and the summers, Armani, Galeotti and pals repair to a Moorish-style domed house on the island of Pantelleria, 50 miles off the coast of Tunisia, where nature...
...Armani's strength is consolidated, his influence lasting. The fashion world pays homage, genuflects and, like a child peeking out from behind prayers, starts casing the sanctuary for a little diversion. Some are suggesting that the next big fashion push will come from Japan. Others-like Kal Ruttenstein, fashion director of Bloomingdale's, who wears "only Armani," and Daniel Hechter, Europe's top-selling men's sportswear designer-believe that the U.S. will come to the ascendancy. If they are right, here are a couple of kings and two comers who will be riding the crest...
Lauren, like Armani, began as a designer of men's wear, and both started cutting from the same English bias. The man from Milan worked his unstructured radicalization; Lauren stayed as close as possible to tradition, re-establishing and rejustifying it. His clothes, at first, were deliberately evocative of the 1920s and made their way- in a fashion that would both help and haunt him-into the 1974 film The Great Gatsby. More recently, Lauren has looked west for inspiration. His "prairie look" last fall for women, with the hem of a petticoat peeking out from under a skirt...
PERRY ELLIS. If Armani rewrote the fashion book, Perry Ellis took a very close look at his opening chapter. "If we want to be honest," Armani says, "it is not only Perry Ellis but Calvin Klein who has gotten inspiration from my things. But I'd say that, perhaps, Calvin Klein is more of a stylist who can transform a good idea into a commercial success. Perry Ellis is more courageous. He produces a fashion more genuinely...
...handiwork. "Here, it's on this jacket here. I kept it 'cause the cat peed on it." Barnes, 28, admits to doing "kind of spacy designs. But in a time when kids are playing electronic games, we shouldn't be bringing back Argyle socks." Barnes, like Armani, designs her fabric, but goes so far as to weave a sample swatch on her own hand loom, whipping up wild combos of silk, cotton and wool. "I found that I could sell the wildest fabrics for men if the style wasn't outrageous," she says. Barnes...