Word: armanis
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...tucked in; the shoelaces--tied; the hair--combed. There is absolutely no substitute for refined taste when one is selecting from a range of articles that stretches across the Atlantic from Paris and Milan to 5th Ave., skips across 66th and all the rest of the way down Park. Armani, Ungaro, Valentino, Versace, Fendi, Dior, St. Laurent. Not many college students are able to pull off these designs. The few are bound to retain a high profile in any classroom...
After a visit to Japan last year and exposure to Kurosawa's film Kagemusha, Armani has given a new look to his more exotic clothes: smocked leather samurai jackets, ballooning silk pants, kimono-inspired collars, obi sashes and details taken from ceremonial robes. "It's true I was influenced by Japan," says Armani. "But the real inspiration is born when you examine what you did last season and try to sharpen your focus, softening a line that was too rigid, changing a color that was too hard." As a former fabric designer, Armani starts every collection by putting...
...Armani's decision to design for women in 1975 was influenced in part by visitors to his original men's wear store: women shopping not for their men but for themselves. "When I made the first jacket for a woman, copied from the man's," he recalls, "they told me, 'It's too hard, too masculine. Women won't accept it.' They were wrong. Women understood right away that a man's jacket on a woman makes her personality stand out." Most of his jackets today are softly rounded-and very feminine...
...hard-driving northerner, tanned, silver-haired, blue-eyed Armani remains as trim and fit as a male model half his age. His studio is in a 16th-century palazzo in downtown Milan. Despite the surroundings, he prides himself on "de-dramatizing" the female image. Armani maintains that "young women want to dress in a classic way, elegantly, but not a la Dior or Chanel in the '40s. Women today move differently. Today's body should not be confined by clothes that are too structured." Associates note that Armani collaborates closely with several women designers in his studio...
...critics disagree. Francine Crescent, who as editor in chief of French Vogue might understandably be some what skeptical, exclaimed after seeing Armani's new line: "Superb, superb! I want to dress like that! And most important: it's very sexy." Adds Lynn Manulis, co-owner of the carriage-trade Martha stores in Manhattan and Florida: "He's like Pavarotti. A lot of people don't understand anything about music, but when they hear him sing they just know he's great." And he meets an acid test of the classic designers: his clothes never...