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Many progressive Frenchmen would dearly like to see more business leaders like Arnault. Born in Roubaix, in northern France, he graduated from Paris' elite Ecole Polytechnique with a degree in engineering. Perhaps because of their rigid educational system, the French tend to produce civil servants and middle managers, but entrepreneurial brains who would enliven the business climate are few. The success of Arnault, who spent three years working on real estate deals in Florida during the Socialist reign of Francois Mitterrand, has stirred up resentment and distrust among his peers...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

...them, Arnault has broken the rules. A former LVMH executive marvels, "He is ferocious, but remarkable in that he realized that he could ignore convention without ill effects to himself. At that time there were things that were not necessarily illegal, but that weren't done. The practices that should have excluded him from the business world in fact made him one of its pillars...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

...good deal of this censure has to do with Arnault's "ferocious" approach in acquiring luxury-goods companies, many of which were family owned, by splitting the opposition--that is, stepping in on the side of one of two disagreeing partners and later eliminating the survivor. He did that in 1985, taking over the bankrupt firm of Boussac, which owned Dior. At the time, he promised to expand Boussac and preserve jobs; instead he shut it down, having extracted the part he wanted...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

Dior is the jewel in Arnault's crown, and he has entrusted the brash Galliano with polishing it. He says, "I love bringing young talents to the heart of an old house. Galliano has special links to Dior that you can feel: in design, style, romanticism and femininity. Of course, it is sometimes shocking--but fashion means something...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

Galliano's approach has been high drama all the way. For his part, Galliano is terse: "I think long term, and Mr. Arnault is thinking long term with me. He has given this place a complete dusting in the last couple of years"--presumably to make way for the young prince who Arnault believes will be a second Dior...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

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