Word: artes
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Art of the Trio 4: Back at the Vanguard
...latest, live album Art of the Trio 4: Back at the Vanguard, Mehldau wages his battle against jazz sophistry, playing everyone from Jerome Kern and Oscar Hammerstein III ("All The Things You Are") to Radiohead ("Exit Music (For A Film)", the perfect Harvard-Yard-on-a-rainy-day ballad) to Miles Davis as well as many of his own originals. Not surprisingly, on this more rockin' than swingin' installment of the piano/bass/drum combination, not so much more than a few prickles of the late Evans can be felt. But so can a bit of the Well-Tempered counterpoint...
...fashion critics really so oppressed? After all, that splendid shrine, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, does include the Costume Institute, albeit tucked away in the basement. According to Hollander, such efforts miss the point: "Like stage costumes, couturiers' work is often embalmed in exhibitions that can be ghastly essays in necrophilia." She scorns equally "efforts to chain [fashion] up in Cultural Studies." In Feeding the Eye, a new collection of previously published essays, Hollander furthers her project of making the world safe for fashion criticism...
Most of those who argue for the importance of fashion as art restrict their attention to the highest echelon of couture, judging value by such indications as the ingenuity of construction, level of detail, perfection of drape and splendor of textile. Such features may be exhibited as easily on a museum mannequin as on a living person; the animating spirit is the genius of the designer. But for Hollander, while she admires seminal figures like Chanel and St. Laurent, the couturier is a minor figure...
...Lacroix and the others burst theatrically on the scene at prescribed intervals and cause much talk, but most of their ideas die immediately. The ones that catch on are often improved, not debased, by the nonfamous designers who modify them for the public...[F]ashion is an art created by its wearers...and our sense of this primary truth has only lately been obscured by the famous fame of designers...