Word: arugula
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...next time your entree arrives with a tuft of tiny greens on top, don't push them aside. Those diminutive, seemingly unnecessary sprigs of baby basil, chervil or arugula are an integral ingredient, not a garnish. The teensy leaves are sprouting up in restaurants across the U.S. as chefs discover that big flavor is sometimes hidden in little bundles. Charlie Trotter pioneered the use of microgreens at his namesake Chicago restaurant, paving the way for the baby herbs to show up on the menus of such eateries as Alain Ducasse at the Essex House in New York City...
...raspberry, and the scarlet flesh makes for dramatic jams and juices. Their spicy undertones make them popular with chefs like John Villa of New York City's Patroon, who uses blood oranges to make his duck a l'orange. Irish chef Darina Allen features a blood orange, beet and arugula salad in her new Ballymaloe Cooking School Cookbook. When buying blood oranges, choose fruits that are firm and heavy and have a sweet, clear fragrance. Store them at cool room temperature for up to one week...
...satisfying and delightful appetizers hit that spot quite wonderfully. The pumpkin börek ($8)—a savory version of pumpkin pie wrapped in a delicate layer of pastry—is very mildly pumpkin-y, spiced to heavenly autumnal perfection and topped with apple, arugula and tahini. For those who like to play with their food, the dolma—a crispy fried-dough wafer served with hot goat cheese, beet tzatziki and bean plaki—allows an experimental diner to try these three treats in a variety of combinations. The warm goat cheese in particular...
...creative toppings, with a portobello here, chicken sausage there and potatoes hanging out with rosemary over by the bar. Even pepperoni is invited to join the fun, though it can and should be dumped for sopressata. One pizza substitutes a bolognese sauce for the basic tomato, while the baby arugula pizza ($7 or $13) bypasses sauce altogether and is sold instead as “more like a big salad on top of a crust.” (This is, no doubt, the favorite of the very fit staff...
...five salads on the menu also do a good job of covering the basic culinary bases without going too far afield. The simple Italian dressing on the baby arugula salad ($8) was plain as advertised, but it was also all that the delicious mound of fresh greens needed. Only a better asiago could have improved this dish. The bibb lettuce salad ($7) was also impressive, with a nice dijon vinaigrette and good gorgonzola. The cilantro leaves seemed a bit large and obtrusive, but at least that made them easier to avoid. In addition to these two, the diminutive menu offers...