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Like most famous public monuments, Borobudur?the immense Buddhist stupa that rises from a wooded plain in south-central Java like a fabulous, mesmerizing dream?has suffered its share of adversity. It was buried under volcanic ash for centuries; in 1911, its summit was destroyed by lightning; its 2 million blocks of exquisitely carved volcanic stone are slowly sliding down the hill despite an extensive restoration project 20 years ago. Yet she's a game old girl and soldiers on, inspiring pilgrims as powerfully now as when she was raised 1,200 years...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Battle of Borobudur | 1/27/2003 | See Source »

...more a week, more than they had ever earned in their lives. "Life was good. We could get anything we wanted." That's when they bought their first Christmas tree, an artificial one that would be fresh each year. Three weeks ago, the Cochran Christmas was more like Ash Wednesday. De-Shawto and Phenom had no cash for the kids' presents. (The shelter helped out there: people donated gifts from the residents' wish lists.) But they did succumb to the kids' begging and pulled the six-foot faux evergreen tree out of storage: it's still lighted...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: No Place Like Home | 1/20/2003 | See Source »

...sheets of rain reduced visibility to a meter or so. Some of us played cards in the main tent, but others curled up inside sleeping bags in a fetal position, trying to stay warm. The second day, we set off in drizzle, trekking up steep ice fields encrusted with ash. Soon it poured again. We crossed paths with a group of drenched Austrians. Only upon our return to Petropavlovsk did we discover that we had hiked seven hours through an 80-km/h storm. Nonetheless, the spectacle had been worth the effort: a vast crater licked by glaciers, steaming vents encrusted...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Russia's Land of Ice and Fire | 1/20/2003 | See Source »

...After a night's rest in Petropavlovsk, we set off by helicopter, briefly stopping by the Karymsky volcano, which, since its 1996 eruption, has been spewing ash into the air every 10 minutes or so with sinister rumbles. No wonder the native Itelmen people once thought the volcanoes were inhabited by gomuls?Xghosts that roasted whales over huge bonfires, sending forth clouds of smoke and rivers of boiling fat. After camping by the Sestryonka River, we hiked through birch forests and fields of wild purple irises to the Valley of Geysers...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Russia's Land of Ice and Fire | 1/20/2003 | See Source »

After a night's rest in Petropavlovsk, we set off by helicopter, briefly stopping by the Karymsky volcano, which, since its 1996 eruption, has been spewing ash into the air every 10 minutes or so, with sinister rumbles. No wonder the native Itelmen people once thought the volcanoes were inhabited by gomuls--ghosts who roasted whales over huge bonfires, sending forth clouds of smoke and rivers of boiling fat. After camping by the Sestryonka River, we hiked through birch forests and fields of wild purple irises to the Valley of Geysers...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Time Traveler: Land of Fire and Ice | 12/2/2002 | See Source »

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