Word: asparagus
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...like slow-roasted fillet of Wagyu beef with roasted veal sweetbreads, caramelized carrot purée and a sherry vinegar gastrique may be a mouthful to order, but every bite confirms the brilliance of its conception. Plainer fare such as wild mushroom arancini with leek purée, white asparagus emulsion and cep vinaigrette showcase the intense flavors of locally grown vegetables. Hall says: "I let the ingredients speak for themselves." Luckily it's in a language even linguistically challenged bohemians will understand. The results: pure poetry, and worth braving the odd bull for. www.casablanca-gaucin.com
Your cover story on organic vs. local food made me realize how fortunate I am to live in the Garden State [March 12]. Here, farmers sell produce from roadside stands, often within view of their fields, and offer everything from asparagus to zucchini. I'm not concerned if the fruits and vegetables I buy from local farms are organically or conventionally grown; the produce is freshly picked, bursting with flavor and low in cost. As for my search for the perfect apple, I need not look farther than five miles from my home to find a farmer who grows...
...been pretty happy to discover, on at least half the dinner menus I've scanned in the past year, entrées topped with a poached egg: halibut, salmon, pasta, chorizo, ratatouille, tuna tartare, mushrooms, chicken, crab cakes, asparagus, salad. And it always works, adding a richness and silkiness to everything, a protein-on-protein, Atkins-era overindulgence that makes me psyched to be an American. "Hey, this is delicious, but wouldn't it be better if we plopped some bird ovum...
...that I've had so many perfect eggs and unfrozen my past so happily, I'm thinking about doing some poaching myself. Not with a thermometer but with the old swirl-the-vinegared-water technique my grandmother used. Then I'll pop the eggs on some asparagus, or a piece of salmon, and think about her. Or pretend to, while I really think about the salmon...
...other hand, there’s something about sitting outside on a balmy California evening, munching on asparagus with wasabi mayonnaise and sniffing at a champagne flute to pick the precise flavors (the nose) out of the sparkly background that brings me home and sets me afire with passionate love for the California milieu...