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Amid this unremitting misery, Iraqis struggle for some semblance of normality. In Baghdad, the 9 p.m. curfew means that the traditional family outings of summer--an evening picnic on the banks of the Tigris, dinner at a kebab restaurant or a late-night drive to an ice cream parlor--are all out of the question. Visiting with friends and family is impossible unless you're prepared to go early and stay overnight. It's an especially frustrating time for children; although it's the summer break, parents are reluctant to let kids out of the house. Danger hides everywhere. Last...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Life In Hell: A Baghdad Diary | 8/6/2006 | See Source »

Fear of kidnapping is pervasive. To hide their wealth, many Iraqis choose to live well below their means. While on R. and R. in London, I met Hassan, a Baghdad businessman (he asked that his full name be concealed for his protection) who said he had "made millions" since the fall of Saddam, importing consumer electronics like refrigerators, washing machines and air conditioners. But his modest single-story home in the middle-class Yarmuk neighborhood still looks as it did when he inherited it from his father, an army captain. "I won't even put on a fresh coat...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Life In Hell: A Baghdad Diary | 8/6/2006 | See Source »

Hassan's business interests keep him coming back. Yet for many Baghdad residents, the only hope for a decent life is to escape altogether. Since the school year ended in June, thousands of families have been heading to safer parts of the country, like the Kurdish north, where an economic boom carries the promise of jobs. Those who can afford it are going abroad, mainly to Syria and Jordan. "The middle class is evaporating," says Iyad Allawi, who served as Iraq's interim Prime Minister in 2004 and part of '05. "Every Middle Eastern country I go to, they tell...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Life In Hell: A Baghdad Diary | 8/6/2006 | See Source »

Sunnis like Mahmud now feel vulnerable in Baghdad, which for centuries was the citadel from which they lorded it over Iraq's Shi'ite majority. For the first three years after Saddam's fall, much of the violence in and around the capital was committed against Shi'ites by Sunni insurgents and jihadis. But since the beginning of this year, Shi'ite death squads--widely believed to emanate from militias like the Mahdi Army and the Iran-trained Badr Organization--have become the main practitioners of terrorist violence. Each side has its signature style of murder. When Iraqis hear news...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Life In Hell: A Baghdad Diary | 8/6/2006 | See Source »

...genesis of this week's stunning cover story is pretty simple. Aparisim Ghosh--known to everyone as Bobby--our senior correspondent who has covered Baghdad for the past three and a half years, was in town for a well-deserved vacation. Bobby not only is a wonderful writer and reporter, but he also has the enviable temperament of someone who is never rattled, even by car bombs. Bobby began working for the Asian edition of TIME almost a decade ago, has covered conflicts in Kashmir and the Palestinian territories, and his remarkable voice has been guiding readers through the complexities...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Why We Do What We Do | 8/6/2006 | See Source »

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