Word: baghdad
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...drove out of Baghdad, Yuri's camera click-clicked cautiously past rusting scrap yards in the lingering insurgent strongholds of Salman Pak, al-Hafriya and Hay al-Wahida--impoverished slums of outer Baghdad where desperation and frustration have created fertile breeding grounds for insurgents. Every so often, our driver, Sami, would yell, "Checkpoint!" Our cameras would fall to the floor, and we would try to appear innocent as weary-looking soldiers scrutinized our authorization documents in a country still suspicious of journalists' motives. There was a similar procedure for my headscarf and abaya, conservative Islamic women's attire, which...
...wasn't your typical road trip. We left Baghdad at 5 a.m. Destination: Basra, Iraq's second largest city and only major port, 340 miles (550 km) to the southeast. The nighttime curfew had just ended when we--eight bodyguards, two interpreters, four journalists and four drivers--piled into our cars as the sun was coming...
...driven like this, in a "soft"--unarmored--car and without the protection of the U.S. military, was in late 2003. Earlier this year, the route we were traveling was so rife with violence that the trip would have been impossible. In the past year, the roads south of Baghdad have started to stabilize, thanks to the efforts of Iraqi and U.S. troops and a cease-fire declaration by radical opposition cleric Muqtada al-Sadr...
...ghayde, 33, commands one-third of the 923 Sunni fighters that patrol Dora, a predominantly Sunni neighborhood of Baghdad where al-Qaeda had banned barbershops and outlawed alcohol. He had 422 men, but about 50 fled, fearing arrest by the government. The district, which is hemmed in by high concrete T-walls, was a byword for terror before locals like the sheikh joined with U.S. forces to rout the extremists...
...rampant looting that occurred following the fall of Baghdad: "A young lieutenant stood with his men, looking on with a troubled expression. I asked him why he was letting the Iraqis destroy the building, destroy the city. 'I don't have orders,' he said, shaking his head. 'No orders...