Word: balenciaga
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...hair strands fluff out in graceful waves or very floppy curls-what celebrated Coiffeur Vidal Sassoon calls a "marvelous, curly 'Greek boy' look." As another hairdresser puts it: "The difference between the old permanent and a careful unpermanent is the difference between your first dress and a Balenciaga...
...year that seems to be so devoted to the Chanel principles of simplicity and elegance, the late fashion empress's own line-by Balenciaga-trained Ramon Esparza-ironically fell flat. Though WWD Publisher John Fairchild found the collection "young and different," it was all but hooted out of Paris by local authorities. "An incredible pell-mell of belted raglans, monkey-trimmed redingotes, hippy waistcoats, red rainproofs and dollie-see-through dresses," Le Figaro concluded unbelievingly. "They look like bad copies of good originals...
Died. Cristobal Balenciaga, 77, grand master of French haute couture; of a heart attack; in Valencia, Spain. The son of a Basque fisherman, Balenciaga was 42 before he left Spain to establish his Paris salon. For the next 31 years he combined his sense of Spanish simplicity and elegance into fashions that adorned the rich and the royal round the world. Considered by many to be the most influential designer of the postwar years, Balenciaga introduced the sack dress, the semifitted suit and the seven-eighths coat. While some Paris designers in recent years concentrated on ready-to-wear lines...
...Hatter. Adolfo started at the top, with hats. Now 36, the Cuban-born designer came to the U.S. 17 years ago after a short-lived apprenticeship ("picking up pins" is how he describes it) with Paris Couturier Balenciaga. He checked into a job in the millinery department of Manhattan's Bergdorf Goodman. Six months later he checked out of Bergdorf's and into the hat firm Emme as chief designer. But eight years of turning out nothing but millinery designs left him a grumpy, if not downright mad hatter; he accepted $10,000 in cash from Seventh Avenue...
Much of the impetus comes from the exotic costumes dreamed up by youth, and the watchword is "Do your own thing." The situation has traditional designers up tight. Old standard setters, like Balenciaga, have retired. Others, like Saint Laurent, reach for youth by focusing increasingly on less expensive ready-to-wear clothes. At 46, fatigued by the efforts that have kept him far ahead of other designers, Rudi Gernreich last week announced that he was taking a year off in order to refresh himself. Says Gernreich, who championed the new attitude all along: "I feel that a woman must...