Word: balenciagas
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Good Sport. To suit them, Nona and Sophie still go to Paris twice a year. On their last trip a few weeks ago, they bought "a little of each," says Sophie. "Some customers adore Lanvin. Others like Nina Ricci and Cardin, Givenchy and Balenciaga." After ordering the originals, the ladies buy fabrics, buttons and other necessary materials. Back at the workshop, their custom seamstresses make up duplicates, and Chez Ninon announces a showing. A private one is held for important customers, such as Jackie and Mrs. Dillon; Jackie herself gets the first look at new clothes, if she requests...
...belted waist was in and so was the welt-seamed skirt that whirls like a skater's costume. Hemlines stayed put. The buyers' favorites were Givenchy's high bustline, soft-shouldered dresses and Balenciaga's short shrug jackets. A hemstitch away in popularity: Yves St. Laurent's "cowboy look" (sombreros, neckerchiefs), and Marc Bohan's Dior evening gowns that plunge front and back. Copies, adaptations and custom reproductions will be ready in U.S. shops this month...
Sudden Vulgarity. Much of her wardrobe is designed by Balenciaga ("He has been dressing me since 1938") and Givenchy. In Paris, she keeps "very elegant, very different" gowns. She wears Chanel suits only in Lausanne, because, she says, so many others wear Chanel suits in Paris and New York. She never wears shorts ("You have to be a girl to wear shorts; nobody but a child looks right in them"). In her early Palm Beach days, in fact, Gloria was torn by a dilemma. A dress was too chic for downtown wear, she decided, and of course shorts wouldn...
...unbelievable! Incredible! You can't do this in Europe!" It is not so simple with hats, however, which "must be made on your head. A ready-made hat will not be you. While I am sitting for a dress, I sit ten minutes longer, and Balenciaga works...
Little Diamond Things. Gloria rarely takes any designer's ideas without insisting on changes. She will have Balenciaga take off a button here and there, change the collar, or even have him run up something out of a skirt from this dress, the neckline from that, the sleeves from another...