Word: barber
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...copout to have a greenhouse if you're growing, say, tomatoes and mangoes here in Westchester County in the middle of winter, because you're pumping fossil fuel in to heat your greenhouse so you can do it,? Barber told me. ?But we're not doing that... We're pumping a little bit of fossil fuel in, but we're growing for the most part hearty winter greens, root vegetables and salad greens...
...Make money. Stone Barns devotes more than half the space in the greenhouse to salad greens not only because they will flourish there without the use of chemicals but also because they draw a good price in a health-conscious place like Westchester County. (Despite the close links, Barber insists that the Stone Barns farm sells its produce to his Blue Hill restaurants at fair-market value. The farm also sells to retail customers at a small but busy on-site market...
...Barber, 36, is a wiry guy, a talker, a fuzzy-haired and friendly type. He pretty much always wears chef's whites, but he is most passionate about farms; he grew up in New York City but worked summers at his family's farm in Massachusetts. (Full circle: that farm is named Blue Hill...
...dreamer, and his dreams have been fueled by a Rockefeller-size budget, but Barber is no purist. Stone Barns is an organic farm, but Blue Hill doesn't serve only organic food. The fruit, for instance, is almost all grown with chemical inputs. Organic fruit is available from California - which doesn't suffer from the Hudson Valley's humidity - but Barber prefers to buy locally. That's partly because the fruit tastes better without being trucked across the continent and partly because Barber wants to encourage non-industrial, regional agriculture. That means he lives with some pesticide residue...
...answer is, in part, the technology is not that bad,? says Barber. ?Perdue may be evil incarnate, but they have bred a chicken that is goddamn profitable. And easy...