Word: bathes
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...oldest, best-known bath in Tokyo is the Azabu Juban Onsen, a real hot spring spouting from 500 m underground. This is an old-fashioned, no-frills establishment; you get a thin tenugui, or washcloth, upon admittance and nothing else. The locker room is grotty and the bath tiles stained. But aficionados travel from across the country to partake of the brownish waters, whose minerals are said to ease arthritis and other ailments. On weekends, bathers pack the large hall to lounge and eat noodles. Despite the grungy surroundings, it's an authentic taste of true onsen, or hot spring...
...Tobacco Road" and "God's Little Acre," Erskine Caldwell's novels of the dirt-poor, lubricious South, where the men are mean and the women are willin', where everyone quotes the Bible and nobody follows its Commandments. There isn't much skin in the movie, just a midnight bath in the old crick, but what's there is cherce; for Meyer's leading lady, Barbara Joy (whom he rechristened Lorna Maitland, after her character), possessed a pretty, persuasively sullen face - and, more to the points, a hefty bosom that flouted all known laws of thermodynamics...
...favorite is Kinugawa, north of Tokyo, near the ancient temple town of Nikko. Named for the glassy Kinu River it hugs, the old-fashioned onsen town so relaxes visitors that they wander its streets post-bath in cotton yukata robes. Hana no Yado Matsuya matsuya.co.jp) a venerable inn, features an impressive collection of dreamy Taisho-era portraits of kimono-clad beauties...
After unwinding with green tea in your tatami-mat room, change into a yukata and head to the baths. Before you cannonball in, though, take your washcloth to the showers, soap up and shampoo. Only when squeaky clean should you hit the baths. The indoor one is nice, but the true gem is the rotenburo (outdoor bath). The stone-ringed pool overlooks the river, with your privacy protected by rhododendron and cedars...
Toasty and relaxed from the bath, you don the yukata again and prepare for a lavish meal. In a private tatami room, matronly servers scuttle in with a parade of delicate courses--shimmering sashimi, crispy tempura, individual shabu-shabu pots. Meanwhile, soft futons are laid out in your room, where you will drift off to the gurgle of the river...