Word: beirendonck
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When Belgian fashion first strutted onto the international catwalks in the early '80s, Antwerp took the credit?and rightly so. It was graduates of that city's fashion school?Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walder van Beirendonck, Dirk van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, a.k.a. the Antwerp Six?who were forging a distinctive deconstructionist style, a world away from Belgium's moules-frites-and-cherry-beer reputation. But today it's Brussels?and its Quartier Dansaert?that's ? la mode. At 74 Rue Antoine Dansaert is Stijl?the shop that began the revolution...
When Belgian fashion first strutted onto the international catwalks in the early '80s, Antwerp took the credit - and rightly so. It was graduates of that city's fashion school - Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walder van Beirendonck, Dirk van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, a.k.a. the[an error occurred while processing this directive] Antwerp Six - who were forging a distinctive deconstructionist style, a world away from Belgium's moules-frites-and-cherry-beer reputation...
...Paris or Milan, but in Antwerp. Of the original Antwerp Six, the avant-garde talents who first put the school and this city of 452,000 people on the fashion map in the early 1980s, four of them - Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter van Beirendonck and Dirk van Saene - remain based in Antwerp. A fifth, Dirk Bikkembergs, left just last year. The sixth switched to theater design...
...would think that given $5 million by the regional government to put on an exhibition to showcase Antwerp design, Van Beirendonck, a lecturer at the Fashion Institute, would have as his primary aim the promotion of the school's talented graduates - to get them some of the top posts at major fashion houses and attract shoppers to their labels. In fact, he's going about it the other way round. He says his goal is not to promote designers, but to bring the over-commercialized world of fashion around to his way of thinking. "I want to underline...
...Antwerp designers comes from. The series of exhibitions includes things not normally associated with fashion shows, like helicopter rides, videos and slogan-less billboards. The most popular and the largest of the exhibitions, "Mutilate," is housed in the city's contemporary art museum, MUHKA. Visitors are, says Van Beirendonck, confronted with examples of the way people in cultures around the world alter their bodies in the name of fashion. There's an image of skinny Twiggy, the '60s model who inspired fashionable women in the West to give up food, but there are also representations of foot-bound Chinese women...
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