Word: bendel
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...Designers can hardly do too much to glamorize the gam and take the limb out of limbo. Dawn Mello, fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, pronounces: "If you want to do something new to your wardrobe, you accessorize the leg." Adds Sunny Clark, a buyer for Henri Bendel: "This year there are a jillion different looks for the leg." The re-emergence of the leg results partly from the new, bigger, fuller skirts and dresses that require attention be paid to the underpinnings. Says Fashion Editor Elsa Klensch of Harper's Bazaar: "No doubt of it, the leg has come...
...From Bendel's and Bergdorfs in Manhattan to Saks Fifth Avenue in Chicago to Neiman-Marcus in Dallas, leggy accessories are already a runaway business. How hot they will be when it gets cold is anyone's guess...
Numbers Man. Franklin seems to have fallen victim to his own attempts to bring more scientific management to the diverse, largely fashion-oriented (Henri Bendel, Bonwit Teller) business. Jarman, a numbers man who carries an elaborate pocket calculator, lopped off several divisions, including San Remo men's suits and I. Miller women's shoes, and slashed 10,000 employees from the payroll. The surgery alienated the heads of many of Genesco's 78 operating divisions, who resented Jarman's lack of merchandising expertise. Some grumbled that Jarman "ran a fashion business as though it were...
...then, however, the recession was causing such sharp cutbacks in new construction that few jobs were to be had. But Walker noticed that retailers kept on building new stores and remodeling old ones. He broke into the then staid field by refurbishing the shoe department of the Henri Bendel store in Manhattan. The result was so bright and tasteful that other merchants noticed it, and Walker suddenly found himself in demand. He now employs 35 people and does more than $15 million worth of store projects a year. In the U.S., his chief clients are various divisions of Federated Department...
Fashion buyers and critics have not yet figured out what to make of it all. Geraldine Stutz, president of Manhattan's Henri Bendel, shakes her head and says: "We're not ready for this." Gina Fratini, a London designer who turned out high-priced miniskirts in the '60s, concedes this time around: "It's unreal. Lots of people can't wear minis." Bernard Ozer of Associated Merchandising Corp. of New York insists: "At most, it will appeal to trendy young girls going to discotheques. No woman is willing these days to convert a wardrobe from...