Word: berges
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...riotous Paris premiere of Stravinsky's The Rite of Spring in 1913? The hostile demonstration in Vienna that prevented the first performance of two of Alban Berg's Altenberg Lieder a couple of months earlier? The disruptive reception accorded Verdi's La Traviata or Puccini's Madama Butterfly...
...throwback to the elegance of the Russia whence he came, Erte has been for eight decades both a witness to and an influence on the style and tone of the 20th century. The designer for the Folies-Bergère, the Ziegfeld Follies, George White's Scandals and the illustrator of every Harper's Bazaar cover from 1915 to 1936, Erte continues today to work in his Paris home, creating his fine-lined, Beardsley-esque drawings; only last June, Der Rosenkavalier, featuring his sets and costumes, was performed at England's Glyndebourne Opera Festival...
...first like a rather odd combination. Most will reply that they came to Harvard to get the education, but for anyone serious about turning professional, history does not seem to justify their choice. Lou Gehrig, many like to point out, went to Columbia: some even take pride that Moe Berg went to Yale...
...temperament is understandable. Bergé has a legend to burnish and a business to run. He sounds like a man who knows strong competition when he sees it taking a stroll down the boulevard, decked out, more than likely, in some splendiferous Armani assemblage. The fact is, Saint Laurent remains the pale eminence of high fashion, in part because of his undisputed creative coups over the years, in part because of his huge volume of business and the relentless mythologizing of the fashion press. The fact is also that while Saint Laurent's contributions have been generative and historic...
...customer. "I don't have in mind either a tall person or a short person, ugly or beautiful, jet set or middle class," Armani says. "I aim at a client who dresses from individual choice, not imposed fashion, and not simply because something was designed by Armani." Snaps Bergé: "I'm in the fashion business, and even I can't tell you what an Armani man or woman is." That is just the point. The fact that it got past Bergé so easily may indicate that the Saint Laurent enterprise has lost its sure touch...