Word: betelnut
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...LORD'S TABLE Potato peeling isn't always the first step of a storied culinary life. But for Jeffrey Lord, chef and owner of Betelnut on Koh Samui, skinning spuds at Chez Panisse?the cradle of California cuisine?was the start of a cooking career that has carried him around the world. His intimate yellow dining room on a quiet side street off Chaweng beach is worthy of his beginnings. If ever two cuisines were dying to meet each other, they're Thai and Californian, and Lord brings them together brilliantly...
...Betelnut, Lord is as much an attraction as the food. He's an exuberant raconteur who delights in overruling his guest's orders. For starters, Lord firmly suggests either the crab cakes mingled with kangaroo and served with nori or the tortillalike summer roll stuffed with scallops, shrimp and sesame sauce. And when my dinner companion chooses the blackened mackerel, Lord refuses to give it to him. "You'll be much happier with the soft-shell crab," he says as he walks away with the menus. Grudgingly, my tablemate later concurs that the soft-shell crabs with green papaya...
...Made with tiny pri kee noo chilies, the spark behind Thai cuisine's fire, the sorbet lives a life on the tongue. It enters the mouth cool, heats up to a pleasant buzz and then warms the throat and belly on its way down. Much like a meal at Betelnut. Dinner for two with starters, dessert and a bottle of wine will cost $100. Betelnut is located at 46/27 Chaweng Boulevard, Soi Colibri. Call (66-77) 413 370 for reservations...
Died. Juanita Hall, 66, "Bloody Mary" in the stage and screen versions of South Pacific; of diabetes; in Bay Shore, L.I. "Bloody Mary is the girl I love," sang the sailors, and for 1,694 Broadway performances, audiences loved her too, as the scheming, betelnut-chewing Tonkinese mama who belted out Happy Talk, and sang Bali Ha'i with such feeling that she nearly stole the show from Ezio Pinza and Mary Martin...
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