Word: bettoja
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...harmonious balancing of a menu is perhaps more important to Italian cuisine than to any other this side of China. This can be a twice-a-day exercise, since most Italians still favor the three-course midday repast. Italian Cooking in the Grand Tradition (Dial; $24.95), by Jo Bettoja and Anna Maria Cornetto, addresses itself primarily to seasonal family meals and honors the year's special occasions. The two fare ladies, Bettoja from Millen, Ga., and Cornetto from Rome, are former models who run a celebrated Roman cooking school called Lo Scaldavivande (the covered dish). Jo married into...
...damn the expense. Holiday favorites include Christmas turkey, which the Italians devoured long before the Pilgrims, and is served here with hot fruits; and milk-fed baby lamb, traditionally tendered at Easter, accompanied by egg and lemon sauce. A savory pork roast in pizza dough was invented by Bettoja's husband Angelo, who also prescribed the wines throughout. There are surprisingly few game dishes, but Angelo did contribute a rustic pheasant pate. Desserts include a chocolate and amaretti pie from Parma and one lavish sweet, Sicilian cassata: lemon cake lopped with a heady mixture of rum, chocolate and ricotta...
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