Word: beyoglu
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...Serra Yilmaz, 55, actress A perfect day in Istanbul begins by looking out onto the Bosphorus. The city's colors and the way they melt away ugliness never cease to surprise me. I like to wander down Istiklal Street in Beyoglu early in the day, while it's still empty, toward Tunel, stopping off at Robinson Crusoe, tel: (90-212) 293 6968, for books; Lale Plak, tel: (90-212) 293 7739, for CDs; Umit Unal, tel: (90-212) 245 7886, and BNG, tel: (90-212) 251 9726, for funky, inspired clothes; and Takil, tel: (90-212) 292 1792 for artisanal...
...then hop onto a ferry to Uskudar to watch the sunset. Come back to the European side for dinner, at the inventive Abracadabra, tel: (90-212) 358 6087, in Arnavutkoy. Chat or dance the night away at any of the cafés in Cihangir or bars in Beyoglu. There's no sleeping in Istanbul...
...From there, I'd head to the historic Misir Apartment block in Beyoglu, home to some of the country's best contemporary-art galleries. For a light aperitif overlooking Old Istanbul, I'd either go to 360, tel: (90-212) 251 1042, on the rooftop, or to nearby Leb-i Derya, tel: (90-212) 251 1008. For dinner I'd meet my wife at the Dragon, tel: (90-212) 231 6200, an Istanbul classic, for Chinese food, and then go to a jazz concert at the atmospheric open-air theater next door...
Tucked away in a 1903 Art Nouveau building in central Istanbul's Beyoglu district, Changa, www.changa-istanbul.com, is the granddaddy of the pack. New Zealand-born chef Peter Gordon serves Turkish food with a twist: dolma (vine leaves traditionally stuffed with rice) are wrapped around grilled halloumi and served with a sweet chili sauce; grilled octopus, a local seafood classic, comes with Asian-style sweet and sour miso sauce; and local lamb is accompanied by Tunisian harissa...
...www.360istanbul.com, a swank glass and chrome affair with incredible views of the city. Kokorec, sautéed lamb's intestines traditionally served plain on bread, comes finely chopped with sun-dried tomatoes and a roasted red pepper sauce and baked in filo pastry. In the same Beyoglu area is Cezayir, www.cezayir-istanbul.com, a restaurant-bar converted from an Italian primary school and a favorite with hipsters. Here, tandoori chicken is served with the unlikely accompaniment of pistachio rice, and liver paté is accented with Aegean herbs...