Word: bistro
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Most Overdue Liberation. Shattering the traditional male domination of serious restaurant cooking, an innovative crew of distaff chefs -- among them the pioneering Alice Waters of Berkeley's Chez Panisse, Anne Rosenzweig of Manhattan's Arcadia and Susan Spicer of New Orleans' the Bistro at Maison de Ville -- proved that wearing skirts was no barrier to donning toques...
...often the most overhyped oenological event of the year. In 1989, however, the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau -- the early fermented version of France's most popular red bistro wine -- is something to celebrate. Tart and short- lived in off-vintages, this year's Nouveau is fresh (as it should be), fruity (ditto) and surprisingly well rounded -- the best wine they have made, growers say, since 1985. Nouveau's good structure bodes well for the quality of the longer-lasting (five years or more), higher-priced Beaujolaises bearing such village names as Brouilly, Chenas, Julienas and Morgon, which will arrive...
...Liberty was only a couple of years older. His father Moses, a cantor, died when the boy was eight, so he hit the streets in search of work. Izzy sang for pennies anywhere he could find listeners, finally landing a job as a singing waiter in a raffish Chinatown bistro; it was there that he wrote his first song, Marie from Sunny Italy, in partnership with the cafe's pianist. When the song was published in 1907, a printer's error had given him a new name: I. Berlin...
Close readers of the New York surveys observe that they invariably list Vinnie's Pizza, a nondescript takeout joint near the Zagats' Upper West Side apartment. But Zagat denies the guides reflect a personal taste, noting that his reviewers rate one posh Manhattan bistro higher than he does. "I've never liked La Cote Basque," Zagat says, "but there are 500 of them and only...
...open this month, will feature dishes as stylistically diverse as Thai green-curry lobster soup, salad of rock crab and sashimi, and lambs' tongues with fava beans and cilantro. Even in New Orleans, where locals still favor their own Creole-Cajun kitchen, Susan Spicer, of the Bistro at Maison de Ville, has won converts with her Provencal improvisations...