Word: bodhgaya
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...flavor of touts. “You think I want money; I just guide people for good karma of helping. What are you looking for?”“Umm... enlightenment. Now jayo, bhaya: get out of here.”An eight-year old kid in Bodhgaya latched onto my friend and I. Chutto told us he wanted to practice his English, and he took us to his family’s one-room hut, adjacent to the tent restaurant we were eating in and showed us his schoolbooks. Then he asked us if we wouldn?...
...Buddhist heartland in eastern India has fared worst of all. The original fig tree at Bodhgaya?under which Prince Siddhartha became the enlightened Buddha?burned down centuries ago. Today, hawkers sell leaves from a replacement tree for $1 apiece. A swath of hotels and shops encroach on the temple complex, and police say looters have stolen hundreds of artifacts, an allegation that temple manager Kallicharan Yadav dismisses as "baseless." What is undeniable is that Hindu priests have turned parts of the Buddhist holy site into shrines to their own gods. A day's drive away, Nalanda University, the wellspring from...
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