Word: bohan
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...loose chemise dominated almost all the Paris presentations. Givenchy brought forth a somewhat slimmer and more refined version with hems stopping just two inches below the knees. Dior's Marc Bohan played a variation on the theme, dubbed the Big Droop, while Cardin swooped in with an offbeat bat-winged dress featuring sleeves starting at the hem. Even Courreges, daddy of the mini, decorously draped the knee in this year's designs, threatening to leave mankind with nothing but fond memories of leg-watching...
...Provocation. The 1930s theme was echoed by every Paris couturier from Givenchy, Balmain, Scherrer and Lapidus to Dior, St. Laurent and Chanel. Marc Bohan, Dior's successor, set the early pace. His skirts were long and supple. His jackets, closed at the waist with a narrow belt, were full and casual. Evening dresses, as diaphanous as lingerie, hint of luxury...
Sexist? Surely; but also sexy-and elegant. Take Bohan's shirts, which were lavishly applauded by buyers and critics alike. Some of the most striking were deliberately provocative with deep, insouciant necklines or low square necks and thin shoulder straps. What to wear under these blouses? According to the designers, absolutely nothing...
...always, hemline lengths "don't really matter" any more to the likes of Yves St. Laurent; as always, buyers and fashion writers looked first to the calf. The results were generally high-level (just below the knee), though midi-scarred U.S. buyers noted nervously that St. Laurent, Marc Bohan and others insisted on prolonging the scene in some of their models all the way down to mid-calf level. Ungaro even dipped to just-above-ankle, granny-style length for streetwear, to be worn over high-heeled boots. Still, there was much to applaud (if not to afford): daytime...
...Miss Bohan, service representative for the phone company, attributed the error in billing to a computer mix-up, saying that the changeover in students from the summer school to the winter session was so rapid that the computer could not keep up with where the centrex phones had been installed over he summer...