Word: bohan
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...look that Saint Laurent himself once institutionalized, and his revolutionary peasant look of last year was transmuted into costumes more sumptuous, more fantastical, more opulent -and more expensive (typically $3,000 to $10,000 per outfit)-than ever before. Romanticism-from Saint Laurent's Oriental visions to Marc Bohan's fin desiecle flirtations-is alive and well and living in Paris...
BELLE ÉPOQUE. While most of the designers were evoking images of the celluloid past or far-flung lands, Marc Bohan for the House of Dior chose his motifs from a nearer era-France's Belle Epoque. Inspired by the writings of Colette, his clothes are flirtatious and feminine. Here there are no robes that conceal the figure, no heavy padding-only effervescent clothes that capture the spirit of Gigi, the gay gamine immortalized by Maurice Chevalier's Thank Heaven for Little Girls...
Pierrot collars and flounces adorned many of Bohan's dresses, capes and blouses. For evening, there were a strapless ball gown supported by whalebone, tiered party dresses, and taffeta capes with double Pierrot collars. The knee-length daytime outfits, including simple black wool suits and Spencer jackets worn with black stockings, narrow neckties and black velvet hair ribbons, drew sustained applause from an audience that included both Madame Claude Pompidou and Bianca Jagger. Said Bergdorf Goodman President Ira Neimark, who plans to buy ten or twelve Dior ensembles for his Paris couture promotion: "Excellent-in the tradition of Dior...
Appealing as they are, ready-made clothes from the U.S. have yet to offer a serious challenge to the great European collections. Marc Bohan, 49, who for 15 years has kept the Paris house of Dior in the forefront of world fashion, has high praise for what he calls the Americans' "relaxed, sportive way of putting clothes together." However, like other Continental designers, he maintains that most innovations still come from Europe. Says he: "American designers work on ideas rather than invent them...
Endangered Species. At Dior and most other houses this year, the fur flew freely. Bohan's coats have collars of red or silver fox; raincoats are lined and hooded in mink and moleskin; his anoraks are lined in seal or fox; sheer jackets are bordered in matching ostrich plumes. But if Bohan's clothes hurt the purse, they should not distress the conscience. Said a program footnote: "Christian Dior Fourrure hereby declares that none of the furs shown in the collection are on the endangered list of the World Wild Life Fund." Indeed, if their prices keep rising...