Word: bohan
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...Tight Torso." Pierre Cardin's bottom-cupping skirts cling as tightly as the skin on a peach. Yves Saint Laurent, couture's most influential designer, has also rediscovered the slim look, with cool, understated dresses and near severe tailored pants and jackets. At Dior, Marc Bohan showed below-the-knee skirts topped by waist-length confections he calls "waiter's jackets" -and most women doubtless will have to wait a long time to afford...
...Bohan's collection was possibly the best he has assembled in his 30 years in couture. "Poetry," cooed Vogue Editor Grace Mirabella. "Out of this world," said Ohrbach's Sydney Gittler, who plans to copy Bohan's so-called ponchos, or cape coats, which were the talk of the show. Though Bohan maintains that "the richest people these days are the ones who avoid looking luxurious," his deluxe sport daytime clothes are made of opulent materials-alpacas, cashmeres, vicuña-that cost upwards of $100 per yd. His evening designs are quietly sumptuous. Sum black sheaths...
...loose chemise dominated almost all the Paris presentations. Givenchy brought forth a somewhat slimmer and more refined version with hems stopping just two inches below the knees. Dior's Marc Bohan played a variation on the theme, dubbed the Big Droop, while Cardin swooped in with an offbeat bat-winged dress featuring sleeves starting at the hem. Even Courreges, daddy of the mini, decorously draped the knee in this year's designs, threatening to leave mankind with nothing but fond memories of leg-watching...
...Provocation. The 1930s theme was echoed by every Paris couturier from Givenchy, Balmain, Scherrer and Lapidus to Dior, St. Laurent and Chanel. Marc Bohan, Dior's successor, set the early pace. His skirts were long and supple. His jackets, closed at the waist with a narrow belt, were full and casual. Evening dresses, as diaphanous as lingerie, hint of luxury...
Sexist? Surely; but also sexy-and elegant. Take Bohan's shirts, which were lavishly applauded by buyers and critics alike. Some of the most striking were deliberately provocative with deep, insouciant necklines or low square necks and thin shoulder straps. What to wear under these blouses? According to the designers, absolutely nothing...