Word: bohan
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...individual cus tomers. He is Manhattan's aging Mainbocher, 75, born Main Rousseau Bocher in Chicago-and his dresses can be seen on "CeeZee" Guest and "Babs" Paley. But the wave of the future really lies with the younger designers who produce ready-to-wear. To Marc Bohan of Christian Dior in Paris, California's puckish Rudi Gernreich, 44, is the standout. No designer for conformists, he will go all out to make his point, reaped a whirlwind of publicity in 1964 with his topless bathing suits. He only sold 3,000, but everyone has paid attention...
...sensation was Dior's Marc Bohan. AGENT PROVOCATEUR, headlined Women's Wear Daily, which had a full day's scoop on the Dior collection. Stalking down Dior's ramps, models swaggered in mid-calf-length capes and military greatcoats that could have stepped right out of Doctor Zhivago. True, underneath, Bohan had his models in guillotine-hemmed up-and-down dresses or knee-length double-breasted suits, but the challenge to the high-rise hem was obvious. "Something had to be done about the length," said Bohan. "They couldn't get any shorter-and besides...
Carroll had latched onto the dernier cri: from Paris to Rome, the word was feathers. And enough of them were being used to have the Audubon Society declare a state of emergency. Dior's Marc Bohan must have robbed every hen house and bird cage on the Continent. He whipped up topcoats of grouse, full-length evening coats of grackle, blouses of speckled hen feathers and wove materials half in tweed and half in pin feathers...
...hour-and of spring and summer too-was Dior's Marc Bohan. Overshadowed a few seasons ago by the much-heralded Yves St. Laurent, Bohan was clearly back In, with tenure. In a bouleversant collection hailed as the most beautiful in years, Bohan took fashion out of the bony grasp of the mannequins and gave it back to the women whose extra inch of hip or bosom, however fetching to the male eye, have made them high fashion's untouchables. Exclaimed Best-Dressed Jacqueline de Ribes: "I am so happy...
...Dresses, in sunny pastels and fresh flowered prints, acknowledge the shapes they clothe; so do the coats, with narrow belts that define waistlines instead of camouflaging them. There was not a pair of pants or a bared navel in the show, or a single lament for their absence. The Bohan brand of exotica-soft silk tunics, rajah coats, full-length sheaths cut above the ankle in front-may have been inspired by the designer's trip to India last fall. But the results are all Paris, and all Paris rejoiced...