Word: bombay
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...Americans have gotten more sophisticated about food, ethnic restaurants have begun to specialize a bit more. There are not only many different regional Chinese restaurants, but now a diner can explore the many styles of the vast country of India. The owners of Bombay Club, which has been in Harvard Square since '91, recognized this growing interest and starting in February began broadening their menu to include specialties from the diverse regions of India...
...northern Indian, and previously the restaurant concentrated on the rich, creamy sauces and subtle spicing of that region. Now the menu, with recipes researched and developed by Shikha Kapoor, features the crepe-like dosas of southern Indian, mustard-flavored potatoes from central India, a lamb dish with apricots from Bombay. The tandoor-baked foods of northern India are also still prominent on the menu...
...Bombay Club's breads are exceptional. The simple chapati, cooked on a griddle, was obviously just made, warm, tender, and tasting earthily of wheat. Rogini naan, touched with butter but otherwise plain, crisped on the ends. Papadum, sun-dried lentil crisps that had been roasted in the tandoori oven, crackled in the mouth, the sprinkling of black pepper giving a little zing...
...fascinating, not hitting the top of the palate quite as directly as, say, Mexican heat, but sneaking in somehow on the oil in the dish. You take a bite and another, and then suddenly the heat rolls in, causing a grab for the water glass. I liked Bombay Club's version, the heat off-set by the potatoes in the sauce and by an accompaniment of cool mint yogurt raita...
Achari aloo, from central India, showed the Indian passion for potatoes. Bright with tumeric and black mustard seed and the bite of chilies, the potatoes delighted the palate. An unusual Parsee dish from Bombay, lamb sali boti, was flavored with apricots as well as ginger and a potpourri of spices. A few potato straws floated across the top. The combination was intriguing, the savory lamb against the slight piquancy of the apricots...