Word: bossed
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Between each of the five shows, Sälzer is up and about, shaking hands. Not a man who sits still, he runs around 8 miles (13 km) in a nearby forest every day in sneakers that are the only items in his closet that do not bear the Boss label. Sälzer will usually spend the rest of his day on his toes because his policy is to limit his time in the CEO's office to two hours a day. His style is to manage by chatting: anyone can approach him, and whether he's in the showrooms...
Which is not to say that the decisions he has to make are always easy. In 2000 Hugo Boss had made a disastrous debut in the womenswear market that cost the company $75.8 million, or 38% of sales, over four years. The division was based in Milan, where, as Sälzer puts it, "the team had, collectively, thousands of years of experience. Yet the crazy thing was, there were big mistakes in all areas. The organization didn't work, and not because we don't know Milan. The problem was, the spirit didn't come over." Once in charge...
CLEARLY THAT PROBLEM is in the past. The womenswear under the Boss Black label being shown tonight, designed by Ingo Wilts, a German who has been promoted through the ranks, is sleek and sexy. Boss Orange, designed by Andrea Cannelloni, an Italian who has been with the company in Germany since 1998, is more casual. Tonight's finale showcases the Hugo label, the brand's most avant-garde offering, and marks the debut of Belgian designer Bruno Pieters, the first major creative appointment Boss has made outside the company since the Milan fiasco. Pieters' collection of compass-cut coats, jackets...
...Hugo Boss, Sälzer doesn't collaborate with famous-name designers like Westwood, and some see the lack of a star like John Galliano or Marc Jacobs as a disadvantage because the brand may seem amorphous and harder for a consumer to pin down. On the plus side, shareholders need not fret about atrophying taste or succession. While the company name dates back to the 1920s, the foundations for today's business were put in place at the end of the '60s, when brothers Uwe and Jochen Holy started to manufacture menswear under their grandfather's name. By 1985, Hugo...
These days the company enforces strict ethical, social and environmental standards in its own factories and in those of its 48 producing partners worldwide. And, as LVMH and Prada do, it plays up its contemporary-art chops. Hugo Boss donates one of the world's richest contemporary-art prizes, the biennial Hugo Boss Prize, worth $100,000 this year. The company also is a major sponsor of the Berlin International Film Festival and, in sports, has a long-standing relationship with Formula One racing...